STEELSTIK EPOXY PUTTY - 2 OZ

Both numbers are correct and describe different things. SteelStik has a tensile strength of 4000 PSI; the 900 lb figure on newer packaging is the shear strength. The formula has not changed, only the packaging. Support also gives a compressive strength of about 11,800 PSI. All of these are bond strength ratings, not burst pressure ratings, so do not use them to judge a pressurized repair.

No. SteelStik needs a dry surface and must stay dry until it cures. Shut off the water, dry the area, sand it to clean bare metal, and wipe it with acetone before applying. It sets in about 5 minutes and cures in an hour. Once fully cured it can be exposed to water. If the surface cannot be dried, use WaterWeld (8277) instead.

Once cured, SteelStik is fuel and chemical resistant, but J-B Weld does not recommend it for fuel lines or pressurized fuel systems. For a steel fuel tank, use TankWeld (8217); there is no lasting repair for plastic fuel tanks. Any tank repair needs the tank drained and the surface clean, dry and free of fuel. Treat a fuel leak as a job for a professional.

No. SteelStik is rated to 350°F, well below exhaust temperatures, and it will smoke and burn off on a hot pipe. For mufflers and exhaust, J-B Weld points to MufflerSeal or ExtremeHeat, which are rated roughly 850°F to 1000°F, or an ExhaustWeld wrap. HighHeat putty is not an exhaust product either; it tops out at 500°F intermittent.

Yes. After it cures, SteelStik can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed, sanded and painted, and it cures dark gray. Wipe it with acetone before painting; enamel spray gives a good finish. It will not take chrome plating or powder coating, because it does not conduct current. Where you need clean, reusable machined threads, PlasticBonder (50139) taps better than SteelStik.

Coat the fastener with a release agent such as WD-40 or wax, pack the stripped hole with SteelStik, then thread the fastener into the filled hole. As the putty cures around it, it forms new threads. Let it cure for at least an hour, then back the fastener out. For a thread that carries real load, a thread insert or Heli-Coil is the more durable repair.

Yes. Once fully cured, SteelStik can be painted with enamel or latex paints, so your repair can blend in with the surrounding surface.

Enamel and latex paints both work well over cured SteelStik. Make sure the repair has reached full cure before you paint.